|MORE ABOUT PSEUDO-TAPERED
FOR THE INSERTION SLOT SYSTEM
If you want replacement pseudo-tapered bands you may have to ask an
established band vendor to make them for you. Another option is to make them
yourself. The following information may be beneficial if you decide to make the
FABRICATING PSEUDO-TAPERED TUBES.
There are several ways to form the loop in the tube. The easiest way is to bind it
together side by side as illustrated by the amber tube in the Photo #1. When
using this technique the tubes must be bound very tight to avoid slippage. It is
advisable to apply contact cement to the tubes to prevent slippage. Another
option is to apply a small piece of double sided tape between the tubes under
Another tying technique is illustrated by the black tube. With this technique a
small hole is punched or burned into one side of the tube and the other end of
the tube is strung through the hole and out the end. This is the same type of
system used by commercial slingshot makers to attach tubes to a pouch and is
described in detail in the book Slingshot Shooting. A constrictor knot is tied
around the attachment to insure against slippage. The attachment system can
be seen more clearly in Photo #2.
NOTE: [I apply a drop of "Fray Check" to all knots to help keep them
from coming loose.]
The tubes can be attached to the pouch as shown in Photos #3 and #4. When
the system shown in Photo #3 is used, with thick tubes, it is difficult to hold
the pouch closed around the BB. In addition, the BB may come in contact with
the tube on its way forward which may cause it to spin (and curve) or deviate
from its intended path.
I consider the attachment shown in Photo#4 to be superior.
Photo #5 shows how it is fabricated.
In the upper pouch a small length of lanyard (with center strings removed) is
looped through the pouch hole. A constrictor knot is tied around the end. The
frayed end of the lanyard is heated to melting; this keeps the knot from slipping
off the lanyard. The lanyard end is inserted into the tube and tied with a
In the lower pouch, instead of a lanyard, a length of Velcro (the fuzzy part of the
Velcro) is used. A constrictor knot is tied around the Velcro and the knot is
saturated with glue. After the glue dries the assemblage is inserted into a tube
and tied with a constrictor knot. I am still experimenting with this type of pouch
attachment and the results are encouraging. I particularly like the way the
Velcro sticks to the leather pouch keeping everything in alignment.
FABRICATING PSEUDO-TAPERED FLAT BANDS.
The following fabricating technique applies to pseudo-tapered flat bands made
from 107 office-type rubber bands (“A” in Photo #6) and straight-cut latex
PHOTO # 6
This is how I make them:
INSTALLING TAPERED FLAT BANDS
True tapered bands can easily be attached to a slotted fork. Photo #7 shows an
easy attachment technique.
The large end of the tapered band is strung through the hole in the fork (from
the inside out) and tied. The slot cover is not required to keep the bands on the
fork. However, using a slot cover does help keep the band in the proper position.
I have been experimenting with this second type of band attachment for some
time and it works well with wide bands. I call it the "Loop-Hole" attachment
system. The bands installed on a Flat Cat Pro slingshot are shown in Photo #8.
Photo #9 shows how this tie technique is fabricated.
All that is required is to punch a hole in the end of the band and round off the
end. String the other end of the band through the hole. Insert the formed loop
into the hole in the fork and pull tight. A word of caution – make sure to make
the loop in the band before attaching the pouch.
In the past, this loop-hole technique has been tried in attaching the band to a
pouch but resulted in limited success. One of the problems was that the hole
had to be punched into the weakest part of the tapered band which further
weakening the band. In attaching the band to the fork, the hole is made in the
widest (strongest) part of the tapered band thus is of little consequence.